In Prague, things just sort of worked out

May 3rd, 2023

.

.

Prior to the show in Prague’s Jazz Club Reduta, April 30, 2023

.

___

.

 

…..I began my vacation in Europe last week, choosing the gorgeous Czech Republic city of Prague as my starting point.   Shortly after arriving I took a wonderful bike tour and noticed that among the countless historic landmarks, tourist shops, museums, pork knuckle restaurants, pilsner pubs and Czech chimney cake shops that make up this fascinating city were several clubs advertising “jazz” nestled in the narrow-laned baroque neighborhoods and along its major boulevards.

…..While I knew prior to coming that the town had jazz clubs, the number of them surprised me, and after the ride I consumed a half-liter of pilsner and amended my list of possible things to do while in Prague, adding visiting a jazz club or two to it.  Unfortunately, when I subsequently visited the websites for the two most convenient for me to reach on foot, the repertoire wasn’t particularly inspiring.  So, when I set out for dinner I had no expectation to be in a jazz club.

…..I wandered, crossing over the astonishing Charles Bridge into Old Town, meandering along classic cobblestone streets in the perfect light of the descending sun, stopping in at an appropriately dark pub for pork knuckle and another half-liter. Afterwards, feeling heavier in the body but lighter in the head, I began what would turn out to be a significant walk.  It wasn’t long, however, before I was distracted on New Town’s Nardoni Avenue by a modest sign that read “Jazz Club Reduta,” which I recognized as one of the clubs whose evening programming I had determined was not up to my lofty standards.

…..Despite that self-imposed, rigid barrier, I was curious about the club because in the alley leading to the box office hung colorful posters of Sinatra, Ella, and Armstrong, as well as the famous photo of Bill Clinton playing saxophone in the presence of Czech Republic President Vaclav Havel.  In retrospect, what a joyous time in history that was, and such a feel-good moment made it impossible not to at least step inside and check it out.  It was only minutes before the first set would begin, and I had already made up my mind not to attend this show, but I began a conversation with the young man in the box office about the club’s beginnings in 1957 and the next evening’s show when a charismatic and affable man nearby introduced himself as the drummer for the evening, and for tomorrow’s show as well.

…..Thus I was introduced to Otto Hejnic, a jazz drummer of significant stature in Prague who has (I have since learned) recorded several compact discs as a leader, and when he discovered that I am from America and that I publish a website celebrating jazz, insisted that he host me for the next evening’s show.  He eagerly shared information about his career with a genuine enthusiasm that I found irresistible.  I learned long ago to honor that, and he was one helluva salesman, so I accepted his invitation.

…..I left the Club Reduta and set out on my long evening walk, taking countless photos in the perfect light along the way, eventually ending up at the steps of the National Museum at Wenceslas Square, looking down over the length of the square and the entire city.  It was a spine-tingling introduction to my European trip.

…..I made my way back down the square, turning aimlessly down one street, then another – my hotel just on the other side of the Charles Bridge a mile or so away.  My only immediate intention was to get to bed and sleep off some jet lag, but a modest sign caught my eye ahead of me:  “Live Jazz.”   It was available, right here, right now, at a subterranean jazz club known as the AghaRTA.

…..I checked my phone and realized this was the other club whose programming didn’t really catch my fancy, but by now I was determined to take in some contemporary Prague culture before the evening came to a close, so I paid my 300 crowns (about $15), and made my way into the club to experience a drummer-led quartet known as “Captain Fingers,” who proudly market themselves as “the only band on the Czech music scene that is dedicated to an almost missionary promotion of fusion jazz.”  For those who may recall, in 1977 the guitarist Lee Ritenour released an album titled Captain Fingers (his nickname) which actually charted in Billboard for a few weeks and from which this band derives its name.

.

Captain Fingers

.

…..I made myself comfortable at a front row table among a young audience of about 40 people, and with a glass of drinkable red found myself, surprisingly, getting into it.  The music was entertaining and the atmosphere was very fun.   I stayed for about four or five songs – as long as my jet lag would allow – three of which I have some general recollection of.  One was the Ritenour tune, along with one composed by the 80’s fusion band Steps Ahead, and the other a pretty good Pat Metheny song, which the guitarist handled nicely.  I can’t remember the name of either tune, and it really doesn’t matter, does it?  They played them all very well and true to the spirit of the genre, the drummer Michal Hejna was immensely proud of his group (who he introduced – as well as each song – in fluent English),  his bandmates were all quite competent, and I left happy and with the realization and satisfaction that I had to go to the other side of the world to hear a fusion band interpreting long forgotten and generally ignored music.  I made my way across the Charles Bridge and tucked myself into my hotel,  knowing I had supported the local jazz scene on my very first night in Europe, and that another evening of jazz awaited me at the Club Reduta the next evening.  Which was a thoroughly wonderful, inspiring experience.

.

Inside the Club Reduta, April 28, 2023…(left to right; Jakub Tokoli, Lee Andrew Davison, Jan  Fečo and Otto Hejnic)

.

 

…..  Otto met me at the box office and introduced me to his visiting friends, members of the band, and then showed me to the best seat in the house, which is a very warm, comfortable, visually rich space.  The band was fronted by the singer Lee Andrew Davison, a native Oklahoman who has lived in Prague since 1991, and he led the trio through entertaining, competent renditions of American standards – “Route 66,” “Answer Me,” “Summertime” and “Georgia” among them.  At intermission Mr. Davision worked his way through the entire audience, asking where everyone was from, and as he introduced the second set called out the countries represented – virtually every country in Europe, the U.S. and Korea (he made a point of saying they were from SOUTH Korea).

…..So, the ensemble was charming, Otto played the hell out of the drums, and the evening provided me with a warm memory for the outset of my trip, as well as a reminder that, like the night before, jazz is an American art form that finds its way into every corner of the globe, interpreted by quality people and top-notch musicians who have a strong desire to keep the art alive, and to do so with their own vision for it.

…..And, in the case of Otto, his vision goes beyond the ensemble, and he is enthusiastic in sharing it.  He has demonstrated through his creation of multiple recordings (which I’ve enjoyed on Spotify while traveling between cities on the train) that he has a grasp of what is important to him – musical artistry and integrity, a gift for composition, a respect for tradition, and a passion for collaboration.

…..This trip is off to a fine start, and, though not part of my original plan, jazz music and the good people who play it, present it, and witness it has become a central part of it.  Funny how things can just sort of work out.

…..More on that (from Vienna) next time.

,

Joe Maita

Editor/Publisher

.

In Wenceslas Square, April 29, 2023

.

.

Prague, April 30, 2023

.

.

 

.

 

___

.

.

Watch a 2021 filmed performance of the Otto Hejnic Organism playing “Survival Fight,” with Hejnic (drums); Brian Charette (organ); and Osian Roberts (saxophone)

.

“Come Up” is from the album Beringia

.

Click here to be taken to Otto’s website

.

Watch a December, 2022 live performance of Captain Fingers performing at AghaRTA Jazz Club, Prague

.

.

Other posts about and from my European journey

.

Click here to read “My pursuit of the exterior”

Click here to read “In Prague, things just sort of worked out”

Click here to read “Beyond Category…Two Vienna jazz clubs”

Click here to read “A friendship made in Verona”

Click here to read “C’est Si Bon’ – at trip’s end, a D-Day experience, and an abundance of gratitude”

.

.

.

___

.

.

Click here to subscribe to the Jerry Jazz Musician quarterly newsletter

.

___

.

.

Jerry Jazz Musician…human produced (and AI-free) since 1999

.

.

.

Share this:

2 comments on “In Prague, things just sort of worked out”

  1. All those jazz clubs?
    Prague sounds wonderful…

    It’s official: you’re off to a great start, Joe.

Comment on this article:

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Your Support is Appreciated

Jerry Jazz Musician has been commercial-free since its inception in 1999. Your generous donation helps it remain that way. Thanks very much for your kind consideration.

Site Archive

In This Issue

photo of Rudy Van Gelder via Blue Note Records
“Rudy Van Gelder: Jazz Music’s Recording Angel” – an essay by Joel Lewis...For over 60 years, the legendary recording engineer Rudy Van Gelder devoted himself to the language of sound. And although he recorded everything from glee clubs to classical music, he was best known for recording jazz – specifically the musicians associated with Blue Note and Prestige records. Joel Lewis writes about his impact on the sound of jazz, and what has become of his Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey studio.

The Sunday Poem

photo via RawPixel

”Bebop Salvation,” by Tobi Alfier


The Sunday Poem is published weekly, and strives to include the poet reading their work.... Tobi Alfier reads her poem at its conclusion


Click here to read previous editions of The Sunday Poem

Poetry

photo via pickpik.com
And Here We Are: A Post-election Thanksgiving, by Connie Johnson

Short Fiction

Stan Shebs, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons/blur effect added
Short Fiction Contest-winning story #67 — “Bluesette,” by Salvatore Difalco...The author’s award-winning story is a semi-satirical mood piece about a heartbroken man in Europe listening to a recording by the harmonica player Toots Thielemans while under the influence of a mind-altering substance.

Interview

Interview with James Kaplan, author of 3 Shades of Blue: Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Bill Evans and the Lost Empire of Cool...The esteemed writer tells a vibrant story about the jazz world before, during, and after the 1959 recording of Kind of Blue, and how the album’s three genius musicians came together, played together, and grew together (and often apart) throughout the experience.

Community

Nominations for the Pushcart Prize XLIX...Announcing the six writers nominated for the Pushcart Prize v. XLIX, whose work was published in Jerry Jazz Musician during 2024.

Publisher’s Notes

photo by Rhonda Dorsett
On turning 70, and contemplating the future of Jerry Jazz Musician...

Essay

“Gone Guy: Jazz’s Unsung Dodo Marmarosa,” by Michael Zimecki...The writer remembers the late jazz musician Michael “Dodo” Marmarosa, awarded Esquire Magazine’s New Star Award in 1947, and who critics predicted would dominate the jazz scene for the next 30 years.

Community

Notes on Bob Hecht’s book, Stolen Moments: A Photographer’s Personal Journey...Some thoughts on a new book of photography by frequent Jerry Jazz Musician contributing writer Bob Hecht

Feature

Excerpts from David Rife’s Jazz Fiction: Take Two – Vol. 8: “Jazz’s International Influence”...A substantial number of novels and stories with jazz music as a component of the story have been published over the years, and the scholar David J. Rife has written short essay/reviews of them. In this seventh edition of excerpts from his book, Rife writes about jazz novels and short stories that feature stories about jazz music's international influence.

True Jazz Stories

Brianmcmillen, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
True Jazz Stories: “Hippie In a Jazz Club” – by Scott Oglesby...The author relates a story that took place in San Francisco's jazz club the Keystone Korner in 1980 that led to his eventual friendship with the jazz greats Sheila Jordan and Mark Murphy…

Book Excerpt

Book Excerpt from Jazz Revolutionary: The Life & Music of Eric Dolphy, by Jonathon Grasse...In this first full biography of Eric Dolphy, Jonathon Grasse examines Dolphy’s friendships and family life, and his timeless musical achievements. The introduction to this outstanding book is published here in its entirety.

Playlist

photo via Wikimedia Commons
“Quartets – Four and No More” – a playlist by Bob Hecht...In his ongoing series, this 25-song playlist focuses on quartets, featuring legends like Miles, MJQ, Monk, Brubeck, and Sonny, but also those led by the likes of Freddie Redd, David Murray, Frank Strozier, and Pepper Adams.

Interview

Interview with Larry Tye, author of The Jazzmen: How Duke Ellington, Louis Armstrong, and Count Basie Transformed America...The author talks about his book, an intensely researched, spirited, and beautifully told story – and an important reminder that Armstrong, Ellington, and Basie all defied and overcame racial boundaries “by opening America’s eyes and souls to the magnificence of their music.”

Poetry

John Coltrane, by Martel Chapman
Four poets, four poems…on John Coltrane

Feature

photo of Art Tatum by William Gottlieb/Library of Congress
Trading Fours, with Douglas Cole, No. 22: “Energy Man, or, God is in the House”...In this edition of an occasional series of the writer’s poetic interpretations of jazz recordings and film, Douglas Cole writes about the genius of Art Tatum. His reading is accompanied by the guitarist Chris Broberg.

Short Fiction

photo by Jes Mugley/CC BY-SA 2.0
“The Dancer’s Walk” – a short story by Franklyn Ajaye...The world-renowned saxophonist Deja Blue grew up a sad, melancholy person who could only express his feelings through his music. When he meets a beautiful woman who sweeps him off his feet, will his reluctance to share his feelings and emotion cost him the love of his life?

Feature

photo of Lionel Hampton by William Gottlieb/Library of Congress
Jazz History Quiz #177...This saxophonist’s first important jobs were during the 1940’s with Lionel Hampton (pictured), Fletcher Henderson, Louis Armstrong’s big band, and Billy Eckstine’s Orchestra. Additionally, he was a Savoy Records recording artist as a leader before being an important part of the scene on Los Angeles’ Central Avenue. Who was he?

Poetry

“Revival” © Kent Ambler.
If You Want to Go to Heaven, Follow a Songbird – Mary K O’Melveny’s album of poetry and music...While consuming Mary K O’Melveny’s remarkable work in this digital album of poetry, readings and music, readers will discover that she is moved by the mastery of legendary musicians, the wings of a monarch butterfly, the climate and political crisis, the mysteries of space exploration, and by the freedom of jazz music that can lead to what she calls “the magic of the unknown.” (with art by Kent Ambler)

Interview

The Marvelettes/via Wikimedia Commons
Interview with Laura Flam and Emily Sieu Liebowitz, authors of But Will You Love Me Tomorrow?: An Oral History of the 60’s Girl Groups...Little is known of the lives and challenges many of the young Black women who made up the Girl Groups of the ‘60’s faced while performing during an era rife with racism, sexism, and music industry corruption. The authors discuss their book’s mission to provide the artists an opportunity to voice their experiences so crucial to the evolution of popular music.

Short Fiction

photo by The Joker/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
“Second-Hand Squeeze Box” – a short story by Debbie Burke...The story – a short-listed entry in our recently concluded 66th Short Fiction Contest – explores the intersection of nourishing oneself with music, and finding a soul mate

Art

photo of Johnny Griffin by Giovanni Piesco
The Photographs of Giovanni Piesco: Johnny Griffin and Von Freeman...Beginning in 1990, the noted photographer Giovanni Piesco began taking backstage photographs of many of the great musicians who played in Amsterdam’s Bimhuis, that city’s main jazz venue which is considered one of the finest in the world. Jerry Jazz Musician will occasionally publish portraits of jazz musicians that Giovanni has taken over the years. This edition is of saxophonists Johnny Griffin and Von Freeman, who appeared together at the at Bimhuis on June 25/26, 1999.

Short Fiction

bshafer via FreeImages.com
“And All That Jazz” – a short story by BV Lawson...n this story – a short listed entry in our recently concluded 66th Short Fiction Contest – a private investigator tries to help a homeless friend after his saxophone is stolen.

Essay

“Like a Girl Saying Yes: The Sound of Bix” – an essay by Malcolm McCollum...The first time Benny Goodman heard Bix Beiderbecke play cornet, he wondered, “My God, what planet, what galaxy, did this guy come from?” What was it about this musician that captivated and astonished so many for so long – and still does?

In Memoriam

Hans Bernhard (Schnobby), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
“Remembering Joe Pass: Versatile Jazz Guitar Virtuoso” – by Kenneth Parsons...On the 30th anniversary of the guitarist Joe Pass’ death, Kenneth Parsons reminds readers of his brilliant career

Book Excerpt

Book excerpt from Jazz with a Beat: Small Group Swing 1940 – 1960, by Tad Richards

Click here to read more book excerpts published on Jerry Jazz Musician

Community

photo via Picryl.com
“Community Bookshelf” is a twice-yearly space where writers who have been published on Jerry Jazz Musician can share news about their recently authored books and/or recordings. This edition includes information about books published within the last six months or so (March – September, 2024)

Contributing Writers

Click the image to view the writers, poets and artists whose work has been published on Jerry Jazz Musician, and find links to their work

Coming Soon

An interview with Larry Tye, author of The Jazzmen: How Duke Ellington, Louis Armstrong, and Count Basie Transformed America; an interview with Jonathon Grasse, author of Jazz Revolutionary: The Life & Music of Eric Dolphy; A new collection of jazz poetry; a collection of jazz haiku; a new Jazz History Quiz; short fiction; poetry; photography; interviews; playlists; and lots more in the works...

Interview Archive

Ella Fitzgerald/IISG, CC BY-SA 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
Click to view the complete 25-year archive of Jerry Jazz Musician interviews, including those recently published with Judith Tick on Ella Fitzgerald (pictured),; Laura Flam and Emily Sieu Liebowitz on the Girl Groups of the 60's; Tad Richards on Small Group Swing; Stephanie Stein Crease on Chick Webb; Brent Hayes Edwards on Henry Threadgill; Richard Koloda on Albert Ayler; Glenn Mott on Stanley Crouch; Richard Carlin and Ken Bloom on Eubie Blake; Richard Brent Turner on jazz and Islam; Alyn Shipton on the art of jazz; Shawn Levy on the original queens of standup comedy; Travis Atria on the expatriate trumpeter Arthur Briggs; Kitt Shapiro on her life with her mother, Eartha Kitt; Will Friedwald on Nat King Cole; Wayne Enstice on the drummer Dottie Dodgion; the drummer Joe La Barbera on Bill Evans; Philip Clark on Dave Brubeck; Nicholas Buccola on James Baldwin and William F. Buckley; Ricky Riccardi on Louis Armstrong; Dan Morgenstern and Christian Sands on Erroll Garner; Maria Golia on Ornette Coleman.